Field Inspection of C2 Cabinet and Trim Paint
John: Our tests to dry a little bit. And the initial application results are pretty promising. It’s been about 45 minutes.
Andy: Let’s just use this guy right here. Bifolds, this is the back – let’s start on the back of this one. We just wanna do a test and make sure you’ve got a feel.
Get it ready, don’t start spraying quite yet. So, what we have here is the new C2 PolyWhey enamel. It’s a semi-gloss waterbourne enamel mixed with a polyurethane clearcoat, which is – there’s more technology to it than that, but it’s a new product that they’ve done. We’re getting ready to spray it for the first time, we’ve brushed it, and really like that the stuff dries fast, it levels well, and it’s really, really hard. Much harder than we’re used to seeing out of a waterbourne, but this is the first time that we’ve sprayed it, so…airless system, basically full-pressure, 311 duel-oriface tip, we’ll see how it actually passes through there. It’s kind of a big grind for that small of a tip, but hopefully it’ll work. And yeah, we’re gonna do the backside of this door here.
We don’t have any problems. Lays down nicer on this as well…
It almost has a little bit of an alcohol smell to it, but not anything awful. It’s mostly been the normal enamel that we’ve been smelling. So, we’re good to go.
So, we’re here in a repaint we did in Seattle. This house is roughly 1969 construction. And this particular paint that we’re looking at, this is C2 trim & cabinet. The door that we’re looking at here is two applications – this is sprayed on the actual door, brushed on the trim, and the rest of the trim in the house has been brushed as well. This stuff is a pretty advanced paint.
There’s a lot of people going to modified alkyds, so that they can get a water-reducible oil paint. This stuff’s truly waterbourne, truly green, extremely hard, and you know, levels out quite similar to oil. But it’s just – I mean, it’s tough. It’s super hard, so…this is a good example of a sprayed finish and a brushed finish over existing brush strokes and whatnot to give you a feel for what a repaint might look like.
We’re here in the living room again. This is kinda the big bay window-feature portion of the house. These guys were original to the original construction in ’68. And this is, again, all brushed out over wood; this isn’t over metal. I’ll step back out of the way, so that we can get a good look at it.
Prep on this was basically a cleaning, a sand, spot-priming wherever we saw some raw wood. There were some window sills that were installed in here that had a little bit of water damage from condensation when the new glass went in and…two coats, brushed. Just a touch of fill here and there, that sort of thing.
C2 cabinet paint is a poly whey blend water borne enamel that performs nearly as good as oil enamel.
We’ve allowed our test to dry a little bit, and the initial application results were pretty promising. This has been about 45 minutes. You can hear my finger running over the substrate. It has flowed out, I wouldn’t say, like a traditional oil based enamel, like Cellutone, or Satin Impervo, but it’s quite a bit like some of the newer water reduced alkyd modified enamels, like Eco from Fine Paints of Europe, advanced.
But I also have another sample in my shop where I’m going to test the high quality. This is red paint obviously. It is a hone lack gloss. I’m going to paint our secret stuff on this. One coat. There’s some dust on this. It’s just been sitting in our shop. And I’m going to sand it. I’m actually going to try to break it. This is 50 grit sand paper, obviously not for finishing, but I’m going to run it over some parts of this. I’m going to cut into the edge a slight bit. Kind of make this little corner here, be the bad prep side, actually, how about aggressive prep side, it’s a better word. As you can tell I’ve been cutting into the coverage, the red coat, pretty easily. For the rest of it I’m going to lightly sand it with 400. You’re going to get some lipstick. Let’s make a little room in our workspace here. Again, synthetic brush, not a finish brush, just one that I’ve actually taken from the shop. This material feels just like the wall paint. Moore’s Eco, Benjamin Moore Advanced, Sherwin Williams Pro Classic, quite a bit thinner. Something we do in-house, I’m going to share with you, on the edges. We purposely let the paint drip over on the edge, and I’ll show you why.
I apologize I’m not a professional video guy, this is just home video equipment.
Again, this is some stock that we had. This is actually sprayed material that we were testing, another product, it was the Cloverdale paint Renaissance, their alkyd modified finish, interior and exterior grade. But we sprayed it on here. And so this represents a sample where we had a previous coat. This other sample is essentially on raw stock that’s been treated with a wood conditioner. So essentially raw stock. Here’s the paint buildup on the side. That’s a pretty impressive result right there. It’s not cured, it still has some elasticity to it. It’s not tearing the rest of the coating and it’s coming off in one solid piece. Look at that. I’m a little anxious, just to get some 400 on there. It’s still a little tacky but quite, quite, quite impressed. Quite impressed. Primarily what that tells us is, if we have a drip, this is a technique that we use for clear coats. When we have a drip we want to cut it out. Some materials don’t cut very well. This is going to cut very very well. And as you see this is substandard work. It’s been slopped here in these details. That tells us that we can correct problems if we run into those in the field. While we have the video camera out, I’m going to show you some close ups of the other sample. I’m not really seeing the brush strokes on this. So I’m confident with additional coats this will lay out like how we envisioned. You can probably guess the reason why I did it on woodstock is that I want to see the coverage. So right now, let’s put on our second coat. Because as we all know, the quality of any finish depends on what you do first, primer coats, undercoats. That’s why we’ve always used the very best enamel underbodies for our finishes, for Satin Impervo, or Cellutone. So we’ll have a look at that when it’s finished and dried. Right now when it’s wet you can see some of the roping. That, as I know from doing the first coat, that will level out.
